The Homegrown Advantage

High-profile foodie expands her palate with unusual varietals

It’s not even noon, and Molly Fowler is already thinking about dinner. As she watches towhees flit from plant to plant in her garden, the Henderson County resident talks of making a rich, vibrant marinara to serve over al dente pasta. The recipe, she says, calls for caramelizing onions, Italian herbs, and a mess of homegrown tomatoes. 

“There’s absolutely no comparing store-bought tomatoes to vine-ripened,” she says. “The difference in flavor is night and day.”

Fowler knows a thing or two about flavor. In 1989, she put her accounting career on the back burner to found a catering business in Denver called La Piggerie. “I rapidly decided it was more fun to make beans than to count them,” she quips, explaining the big jump from the world of money to the world of food.

In the mid-1990s, Molly shut down La Piggerie and moved back home to Texas, where she made a name for herself as a product spokesperson, cooking instructor, cookbook author (Menus for Entertaining), and culinary personality. 

Today, Molly (aka “The Dining Diva”) resides in Hendersonville with her husband, Kevin. She’s still part of the foodie scene, frequently demonstrating on the WLOS cooking segment Carolina Kitchen while also running a podcast called All The Right Ingredients. But these days, Fowler busies herself with more than mincing, measuring, and emulsifying. That much is evidenced by her 15,000-square-foot garden. 

Situated in a quiet community near Etowah, the plot is a sprawling Eden of twisting vines and rich green leaves. Guests are lured into the space by an archway shrouded in climbing roses and then welcomed by an ensemble of trilling sparrows and the warm scent of blooming fruit.

“We moved to the mountains full time two years ago,” Molly says as honeybees buzz around a dill flower. Somewhere in the distance, a pileated woodpecker offers its high-pitched, flickering call.   

“We attempted to grow some things in our backyard,” adds Kevin, a Master Gardener and semi-retired geologist, “but quickly realized it was too shady.”

Hoping to put down real roots, the couple purchased vacant land across the street from their home and never looked back. In the growing seasons since, they have cultivated a thriving garden complete with a small vineyard; a pocket-sized orchard of apple, cherry, and peach trees; and 38 raised beds overflowing with quirky varietals.  

Case in point: “We have 30 different kinds of tomatoes,” Kevin says, rattling off a long list. He starts with classic red heirlooms like Bonny Best and ends with more peculiar varieties like Candyland Cherry, a marble-sized fruit that’s “just beautiful” on charcuterie plates, according to Molly. 

The couple’s garden is also home to the Giant Jalapeño, which grows big enough to stuff with shrimp and cream cheese, and a crowd of thin-skinned cukes destined for pickling. 

And that’s only the short list of curious crops. The Fowlers also grow artichokes, hops, and even luffas — yes, the bath-time exfoliator starts as a vegetable, not a sponge.

A member of the cucumber family, the luffa plant produces something akin to a zucchini. In many Asian countries, this fruit is harvested at a young age and incorporated into soups and curries. Left alone, it eventually becomes a fibrous scrubbing tool. 

Molly and Kevin aren’t going to eat their spongey squashes. But they do have other plans: “I’m envisioning soap on a rope as Christmas gifts for all our friends,” says Molly. 

Of course, as a culinary maven, Molly stays focused on growing crops that star in unique recipes. One of her favorite garden-inspired appetizers is an elegant goat-cheese log rolled in culinary lavender, marjoram, basil, and a few other freshly harvested herbs. When served with crackers and a Sauvignon blanc, the dish is just dashing.

But for a simple lunch, Molly sticks to a B.L.T. made with buttercrunch lettuce and thick, juicy slices of homegrown tomatoes. The sandwich is delicious, thanks to a smear of mayonnaise and countless hours spent elbow-deep in loamy soil. 

“Gardening is a lot of work,” Molly admits, noting that she and Kevin can easily spend eight hours a day mulching, pruning, weeding, and watching for destructive critters. “Yet gardening gives you a deeper appreciation for what goes into the creation of a meal on your table.”

Herbes de Provence

1 Tbsp. Minced basil

1 Tbsp. Thyme leaves

1 Tbsp. Minced marjoram

1 Tbsp. Minced winter savory

½ Tbsp. Minced rosemary

    1 Bay leaf, finely minced

To taste:          

Lavender flowers or leaves

Fennel fronds

Minced Sage

Mix together and use immediately. Any leftover is delicious sprinkled over goat cheese for an appetizer with crackers. 

Molly Fowler, The Dining Diva, Hendersonville. For more information, visit thediningdiva.com.